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“This was the best day I have ever seen and ever shot at Keramas. I got there early in the morning on a low-ish tide and watched from the channel as an empty lineup pumped with fun, hollow waves. As the tide filled in it started to get bigger and better. Andy Irons turned up solo for a Billabong shoot, but the rest of the team was at another location, getting in an early surf, and—bummer for Andy—they had all the boardshorts for the boys to surf in. After a while, Andy couldn’t stand watching the waves pumping without a soul in the lineup any longer. So he paddled out in his black boxer shorts and tore the place apart.”

- Jason Childs

(via grey-surf)